Artificial grass performs only as well as what lies beneath it. The infill, base preparation, and drainage system determine whether your turf will drain properly after a spring thunderstorm, stay cool underfoot on a 100-degree summer day, hold up to a dog's daily wear, or develop odor and puddles within the first season. This guide walks through each layer of a proper installation: the infill options available, how much infill your turf needs, what base materials work in Plano's Blackland Prairie clay soil, and the finishing details that separate a durable installation from one that fails early.
Whether you are installing turf in a residential yard, a pet area, around a pool, or on a patio, the principles are the same: proper excavation, compaction, drainage, and a written specification that names every material and its performance standard. Read this guide to understand what to ask for, what to inspect, and what questions to ask before you sign a contract.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material that sits on top of the turf backing and between the synthetic grass fibres. It serves several purposes at once: it weighs the turf down so it stays in place and does not ripple, it props the fibres upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, and it helps the turf drain. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is inexpensive and effective. Silica sand is angular, compacts firmly, and works well for most residential and commercial applications.
Coated sand is silica sand that has been rounded and often coloured to match the turf fibre. Rounded grains are gentler on pets and children, move less underfoot, and can be dyed to blend with lighter turf colours. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and releases moisture and is valued in pet turf installations because it helps reduce odor. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, such as Envirofill, add a layer of treatment to the sand grain itself. Cooling infills are designed to lower the surface temperature of the turf on hot days, while antimicrobial infills inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is common in sports field and playground turf because it provides cushioning and is cost-effective at scale, but it is rarely recommended for residential yards because it can retain heat, shed particles, and may require more frequent cleaning.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, and this number is one of the most important details in your turf specification. A typical residential turf might call for 3 to 5 pounds of infill per square foot, while a pet turf installation might use 4 to 6 pounds per square foot to provide extra cushioning and support. The exact amount depends on the pile height, fibre denier, and intended use of the turf. Infill does more than just add weight: it props up the synthetic fibres so they stand at the correct angle, it protects the backing material from sun damage, and it plays a role in drainage by creating pathways for water to flow through.
Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by installers working at the lowest price. When infill is sparse, the fibres flatten and mat down, the turf looks dull and worn within months, the backing is exposed to UV degradation, and drainage performance suffers. When infill is too heavy, the turf can feel stiff and unnatural. The right amount is a balance, and it should always be specified in writing before the work begins. Ask your installer for the infill weight in pounds per square foot and the type of infill material. This number, along with the turf product name and face weight, is part of the written spec you should demand and keep for your records.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
Proper drainage starts with removing what was there before. If you have an existing lawn, the sod and roots must be removed and hauled away. If old turf is being replaced, the old turf and its base are excavated and removed. Once the area is cleared, the soil is graded to slope away from the house, the pool, and any structures so that water runs off rather than pooling. For most residential yards in Plano, the next step is to excavate 3 to 4 inches of soil and replace it with a free-draining base material such as decomposed granite or crushed base rock. This base is then compacted in lifts (thin layers) using a plate compactor to create a firm, stable foundation.
On top of the compacted base, a weed barrier fabric is often laid to prevent grass and weeds from growing up through the turf. This is followed by the turf itself. For pet areas, patios, and play areas, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed between the base and the turf to add cushioning and improve drainage. On hard surfaces such as concrete, a balcony, or a rooftop, the turf cannot be glued flat to the slab because water will be trapped underneath and will cause odor, mold, and deterioration. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is installed with edge drainage to allow water to escape, and the turf is secured around the perimeter so it does not shift.
Base Prep on Plano Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Plano sits on Blackland Prairie, a region known for its dense, expansive black clay soil. This clay drains slowly and can become compacted over time, especially in yards where heavy foot traffic or equipment has been used. When artificial grass is installed over unprepared clay, water sits on top of the base instead of draining through it, leading to puddles, soft spots, odor problems (especially in pet areas), and a shortened lifespan for the turf. Proper base preparation is not optional in clay soil; it is essential.
The base prep process begins with excavation. The existing soil and sod are removed to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, and the subgrade is graded to slope away from the house and any pools or patios. Decomposed granite or crushed base rock is then spread and compacted in lifts using a plate compactor. Each lift is typically 1 to 1.5 inches thick and is compacted firmly before the next lift is added. This layered approach creates a stable, well-compacted base that will not settle or develop dips over time. An uncompacted base is one of the most common causes of early turf failure: as the base settles unevenly, the turf develops low spots that collect water and stay wet, infill migrates downhill, and the turf surface becomes uneven and unsafe. If your yard has a history of standing water, poor drainage, or a water table that is close to the surface, drainage improvements may be necessary before turf installation can proceed. We assess these conditions during the site visit and will recommend solutions or decline the project if drainage cannot be reliably fixed.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass turf is manufactured with either a perforated backing or a fully permeable backing. Perforated backing has small holes punched through it to allow water to drain. Fully permeable backing is made of a woven or nonwoven material that allows water to pass through while resisting root penetration and weed growth. Both types work, but they drain at different rates. Drainage performance is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/sq ft). A typical residential turf might drain at 5 to 10 gallons per hour per square foot, while a high-performance turf for heavy use or a pet area might drain at 15 to 20 gallons per hour per square foot or faster. The faster the drainage rate, the quicker the turf sheds water after rain or watering.
However, fast-draining turf is only as good as the base underneath it. A turf that drains at 20 gallons per hour per square foot will still fail if it is installed over a compacted clay base that drains at 1 gallon per hour per square foot. The water will back up and sit on the turf. This is why the base preparation and the turf drainage must work together. In areas with heavy rainfall, such as the spring thunderstorms common in Plano, or in pet areas where frequent watering or accidents are expected, a fast-draining turf on a properly prepared base is the only reliable solution. For hard surfaces such as patios and balconies, an underlay or pad with perforated drainage is installed to channel water to the edges where it can escape. The turf is never glued flat to a slab without a drainage layer underneath.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details of a turf installation reveal whether the work was done carefully or rushed. Seams are the joints where two pieces of turf meet, and they must be sealed properly or they will separate, collect dirt, and become visible. A professional installation aligns the grain of the turf so the seams are as invisible as possible, then joins them with seam tape and adhesive applied to the backing. The seam is then power broomed to blend the fibres across the joint. A visible seam, a raised edge at the seam, or a seam that separates within the first year indicates poor workmanship or inadequate adhesive.
Edges are secured with nails or staples spaced at regular intervals (typically 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the turf and the surface) around the perimeter. On residential yards, edges are finished with bender board or aluminum edging that is secured to the ground so the turf does not curl or shift. On patios and pavers, the turf is cut tight to the edge of the paver or pool deck so water can drain away and the edge does not become a tripping hazard. After installation is complete, the entire surface is power broomed to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly. Power brooming also helps blend seams and gives the turf a uniform, natural appearance. A turf that is not power broomed will look matted and uneven. These finishing steps take time and skill, and they are what separates a professional installation from a quick, low-cost job that will disappoint you within months.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before you sign a contract or pay a deposit, you should receive a written specification that details every material and every step of the installation. This spec is your protection and your reference if problems arise. A complete written spec includes the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically 3 to 4 inches, compacted), whether a weed barrier will be installed, the seam method and edge treatment, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period. The spec should also note whether the work requires any permits or utility locates, and whether it is subject to HOA approval (which is common for front-yard residential installations).
This written spec is not a sales document; it is a technical document that holds both you and the installer accountable. It prevents misunderstandings about what material is being used, how much infill will be applied, and how deep the base will be. It also gives you a record to compare against the finished work. If the installer refuses to provide a written spec, or if they offer only a vague description of the materials, that is a red flag. We provide a detailed written specification for every project, and we encourage you to ask any installer you are considering for the same. For a free on-site estimate, contact Plano Turf Installation at (469) 874-1078 or visit our pricing page to learn more.